William Gaden

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William Gaden
The Gaden Expeditions

Into The Untrodden Wilds

Before giving particulars of the several horrible massacres of harmless whites by some of the ruthless aborigine tribes on the Dawson River and elsewhere, it will be only right that something should be said about these intrepid and resourceful men of the Rockhampton district who did so much to open up the unknown regions to the north and west. The more orthodox explorations were on a more extensive scale than the expeditions referred to, but so far as discovering new country was concerned and giving a lead to those who followed with flocks and herds and settled on the land, somewhat circumscribed exploring tribes were equally difficult and dangerous and more useful in detail than those who may be described as Australia's great explorers.

Among those whom the writer has in mind is W.H. Gaden, well known in the Rockhampton district in the early days, as well as being one of the early settlers in the neighborhood. He was born in New South Wales, but came to the Wide Bay district in 1854. Mr. Gaden who finally owned Molangool Station, near Gin Gin, has been dead a few years, and must have passed away at an advanced age. He was good enough some years ago to send the writer interesting extracts from the journal of his expeditions, so that the information about to be given can be relied upon.

In 1856 Mr. Gaden, who was manager of Widgee Widgee Station, determined on an exploring trip to the north, - as already Gracemere, Canoona, Mornish and one or two other stations had been taken up and stocked, but away to the north and west of those places practically nothing was known except from information received from Leichhardt when passing through to the north, though he went further to the west than Gaden intended to traverse. Mr. Gaden's party consisted of himself, Dr. James Wilkin, Mr. Joseph Walker, and two black boys, a very small party for such a dangerous trip. The party left Widgee Widgee early in December 1856, and arrived at Gracemere on the 27th of the same month.

The Archers had only been at Gracemere a little over twelve months, and had not yet erected any substantial buildings beyond huts made of reeds. A couple of days were spent at Gracemere, and then moving along Canoona was reached owned by Elliott Brothers. Three days were spent at Canoona, and then the explorers fairly plunged into the unknown leaving the Elliott's on the 4th of January. The aim was to reach the head waters of the Isaacs River, described by Dr. Leichhardt some years before. Everything went all right till they were confronted by the Collaroy Range, and then it was found there was no means of crossing the mountain to get to the west.

Over The Range

Mr. Gaden and his party had a weary search for a place to get across, but it was not till a fortnight had been lost that the leader discovered a spur that enabled them to climb up the steep range. The route over the mountain he then discovered as the one used for a long time subsequently and probably is so still thought many have searched for an easier way.

Once over the range, or rather on the top of it, the way was comparatively easy being a sort of Tableland. They proceeded northwesterly towards Port Cooper, where Landsborough's marked tree was found. Two days later Mr. Gaden discovered what is now lake Elphinstone, a shallow sheet of water of about twenty square miles in extent. He named the spot Lake Burton. The party camped for two days trying to locate the Isaacs River. They explored the sandstone gorge, referred to by Leichhardt and this as the only guide they had as to their whereabouts, Mr. Gaden named the country Burton Downs, a name it still retains. Discoveries Made

Not having discovered the Isaac, Gaden and his followers returned to Lake Burton (Elphinstone), and took a northerly direction. It was raining heavily and all the creeks and gullies flooded. In spite of everything they struggled forward till to their surprise they came to large river running to the northwest. They were all greatly puzzled, as Leichhardt had made no reference to such a stream. It was very rugged on the southern bank, and they decided to cross and follow the river down on the northern bank.

The only way to cross was by swimming and they had no sooner got well started than two alligators appeared, and all hands had to make as much noise as possible in order to frighten the monster away. This they apparently did for the party got over safely and then rearranged the packs and traveled along over easy country, though the rain continued, and creeks and gullies had to be swam.

Mr. Gaden named this river the Bonar, one of the names of Mr. J.B.P.H. Ramsay, a well-known pastoralists of those days. The stream is now known as the Bowen River. Some big creeks were discovered and named and then Mr. Gaden decided to camp, the country still being flooded and rain falling.

The Party Divided

Mr. Gaden decided to divide the party in two leaving Dr. Wilken and the blackboys in camp, with instructions for them to explore the immediate neighborhood, whilst the leaders and Mr. Walker proceeded along the banks of the Bonar (Bowen) in a northerly direction. They took provision for 12 days and told Dr. Wilkin to wait their length of time and if they had not returned to endeavor to make their way back to civilization. There were still alligators about.

Gaden and Walker kept along the Bonar till it joined an enormous river in high flood, and over half-a-mile wide. It was an inspiring sight, and the leader correctly assumed that it was the mighty Burdekin, discovered by Leichhardt, and that the Bonar River had never previously been seen by a white man.

By this time the provisions were getting short and Gaden decided to go back to the camp and rejoin the others. Accordingly they retraced their steps but their progress was so slow that they only arrived on the fourteenth day. Their arrival was a great relief to Dr Wilkin, who was getting very anxious and had determined to start back with the blackboys the next day. The rain still fell in torrents, but it was settled to camp a couple of days and then the whole party returned on their tracks up the Bonar River.

This time they recrossed the Bonar River higher up than before, thus getting things on to the right bank. The flood was still up and many alligators about, but fortunately they were easily frightened of noise. Unluckily the crossing was not made without mishap, for one of the packhorses with a valuable load consisting of ammunition, hobble, shoeing tools, & c, got frightened and turned down stream. It went off with the current at great speed, and though the explorers went back many miles they never saw it again.

Next day the party continued the journey south, and found a river, which flowed into the Bonar. This discovery was made in broken country, so Mr. Gaden named the stream the Broken River, a name it still retains. It rises in the mountains not far from where the Pioneer River starts, but on the western side of the range.

The Return Without Mishap

They were unable to explore this river properly, for they had only taken provisions for eight weeks, and they had already been out thirteen. They had eked out their rations by using flying fox and crows, but these were far from being appetizing, except to the blackboys, who were glad enough to fill their stomachs with the foxes: - Kangaroos, opossums, and iguanas were welcomed by all when such luxuries could be secured. Through the floods fish and ducks were hard to obtain.

Strange to say the explorers saw no blacks after leaving Broadsound till they got back to Collaroy, where there was a big encampment. The travelers were so hungry that they endeavored to get food from the blacks but they could not palate the damper made from the pandanus trees.

There were about 200 blacks in camp who appeared awfully frightened of the whites. The piccaninnies screamed with fright, and a big black giant, believed to be at least 6 ft 6 in., refused to come out of the gunyah. The sons of the soil and their families were glad enough when the exploring party moved off.

The difficult Collaroy Range had to be negotiated, and this was done at a much rougher spot than the climb up. They were now almost back to civilisation, and Canoona Station was reached in May, 1857.

All the people at the station were astonished to see the whole party return in good health, for owing to the delay they fully expected the floods had either swept them away or they had been killed by the blacks. The explorers were all very thin from hardships and lack of food but otherwise were nothing the worse for their arduous travels.

A few days rest at Canoona and then the explorers all traveled to Gracemere, where they also had a splendid welcome, and a further rest for a few days was insisted on.

Mr. Gaden and Dr. Wilkin then proceeded to Gladstone in the Elida, under the command of Mr. Colin Archer, while the rest of the party with the horses went overland. All men in Gladstone and here again wonder was expressed that they should all be alive, and in such splendid health. "Why, we all thought you were dead," was heard on all sides.

On to Miriam Vale, where two men had just been killed by the blacks. They soon reached Ideraway, on the Burnett, the place from which the start had really been made.

All hands were greatly satisfied with the expedition, and it was resolved to go out again the next summer. They had made many notable discoveries and had located large areas of land that subsequently became of considerable value. The Second Trip

Having to return before he had made the explorations he had set his mind on accomplishing, Mr. Gaden resolved to take a spell and then make another trip to the same neighborhood, when the winter was passed. In the interval arrangements for the second trip were completed.

This time the party consisted of W. H. Garden, Joseph Walker, Marmaduke Ramsay, and two blackboys. They left Yendo, Station, on the Burnett River, on the 7th of September, 1857, following the same route to Canoona, which was still the outside station-the limit of settlement in that direction.

The supplies had been sent up to Gracemere from Gladstone, which was the most northern port where supplies could be obtained. Some days were spent in shoeing the horses and arranging the packs, and then a move was made to Canoona Station where final settlements were made, and on the 26th of September, 1857, another start was made into "no man's land", the party being sent off amidst hearty good wishes and loud cheering.

Mr. Gaden kept nearer to the Fitzroy River than he had done on the first northern journey, and struck Marlborough Creek, not then named of course, just at the junction. This Creek was named the following year when the country was taken up by Mr. E. B. Henning. The Gaden party followed the creek up till their outward track of the previous year was cut.

The Collaroy Range was crossed at the old spot, and the Connor's River not then named was followed down, but Mr. Gaden did not like the country very much and they turned off in the direction of Port Cooper and Burton Downs.

In this neighborhood the explorers remained for several days, taking little trips around in all directions, examining the character of the country. In one of these trips they found Skull Creek named by Leichhardt, and included it in Burton Downs run. To the west, on the watershed of the Suttor River a large track of downs country was struck, and as there were a lot of eagles about, the track of country was named Eaglefield. It was subsequently stocked with seed by Dr. Wilkin and subsequently came into possession of Michael Hume Black, one-time Minister for Lands, and member of the Legislative Assembly for Mackay.

Having carefully examined a big radius of country in the neighborhood mentioned, the party hastened away further north on to the Bonar and Broken rivers country. Here several runs were marked off, chiefly on the northern sides of these rivers, and extended as far as the junction with the Burdekin River, Inkerman and Balaclava, of the present day, were among these runs.

The country looked very different on this occasion to what it did under floods and incessant rain the previous summer. One day the blackboys had gone of to shoot ducks, which were about in large quantities, whilst the white men were resting on their blankets. This was on Norah Creek. The men were talking of the adventurers of the day referring to a lot of blacks they had seen going up the bed of the river, the explorers on seeing blacks had drawn back without showing themselves. Conflict With The Blacks

One of the horses feeding nearby gave a sudden start and looked up, the explorers also joining, to their to their surprise they saw about twenty black fellows coming towards the camp at a run. They got their firearms and ammunition ready in case there should be a fight. All firearms were muzzle loading to that period, and all had guns and pistols.

Two of the myalls got among the horses, and it was feared they might stampede. Just about this moment the two blackboys who had been shooting ducks came clambering up the balk of the stream and were eager to shoot the myalls. There two were very frightened and wanted broadly to "shoot the---blacks". Mr. Gaden sternly ordered them not to fire. The black boys in their fright had thrown away the ducks they had shot. Mr. Gaden quickly divided the party, two of them going to protect the horses and the remainder staying to guard the ramp. When they went towards the horses the blacks went away from them, but the whole party continued to slowly approach the camp. The exploring party held up green boughs in token of friendliness.

The myalls, however, envied no desire to be friendly, and whilst both sides were gesticulating, a larger mob was seen approaching with loads of spears, those in front being armed only with boomerangs and nulla-nullahs. The leader thought it was time to frighten the aggressive-looking myalls, and several shots were fired over their heads. The only notice they took of those shots was a derisive yell, and they continued to advance. Then orders were given to fire at the myalls, but not a man was hit, though all of the white party were good shots at ducks or marsupials.

The enemy still advanced in a long line, and evidently meant to attack. At one end of the line was a small left handed black getting ready to throw a boomerang. This was likely to be dangerous, so resting his rifle against a tree. Mr Gaden fired at the little man who appeared to be the leader. The bullet struck him in the shoulder, and upon this all the black raised a yell and turning round made off at top speed. The explorers gave chase for a little way shouting with all their might in the endeavor to frighten them as much as possible. As stated very little damage was done on either side.

In these two expeditions Mr. Gaden had the idea that he might learn something about the fate of Dr. Leichhardt's party who had then been missing for a few years. In the little left handed man it was thought some trace had been found, for he was much lighter in colour than the other. However, they all cleared out so rapidly that there was no opportunity of questioning them. "A British Object"

This skirmish took place in 1857 and in 1863, less than six years subsequently, Jimmy Morrell, who appeared to be a black fellow came into the camp of some people who were attending to sheep, the country having all been taken up in the vicinity spoken of. Probably the whites presented a gun or riffle at him for he is supposed to have said, "Don't shoot, British object." This man stated he had been seventy years with the blacks, having been wrecked on that coast, when only himself and the captain's wife were saved, and were taken possession of by the tribe. Morrell was taken south, via ports, and subsequently was given an appointment in the Port Denison Customs. Mr. Joseph Walker, the second in command in the Gaden expeditions, saw Morrell at Bowen and before at Norah Creek. Morrell said he knew all the country in that neighborhood and had seen the first white men who came to it from the south. Walker had little doubt that the supposed aboriginal, the left handed man with the boomerang, and Morrell were identical, so it appeared that had he wished to leave the blacks that would seemingly have been a good opportunity to do so. Why did he not? The Burdekin River

The next day they struck the Burdekin River and followed it down on the right tidal flow. All hands wanted a bath in the salt water, but a mob of blacks were seen approaching from down the river. All idea of a bath vanished, and the whites rushed back to their horses. When mounted they waited for the blacks to draw near, but they merely stopped and probably discussed what had best be done. They appeared to be afraid of horses with men on them, which they certainly had never previously seen. They finally decided to let the whites along, and crossing the river to the other side disappeared in the bush.

The Gaden party continued down the river bank till the mouth was reached. The sight of the sea was inspiring, and the party remained two days exploring the vicinity. It was then decided to return to civilisation in order to make proper application for the runs they had worked out.

The Return Journey

The weather remained delightfully fine, and the explorers were able to make good progress without anything of moment happening till they reached the neighborhood of the Broken River. After the party had camped, five blacks were seen crossing the river and approaching the fire they had made. The blacks appeared to be peaceably inclined, as they carried green boughs in token of their being friendly. The whites advanced towards the blacks, and placed their rifles against trees, though they retained their pistols. There was apparently no need for such precautions, as the aborigines became quite friendly. The point of this encounter was that the old man of the five introduced himself and companions as "Bunda," "Bcotha," "Martha," "Epitha," and "Cobite,": names which Mr. Gaden knew of his own knowledge were tribal or family names, and extend from South Australia to the Burdekin, and probably further, making allowances for the dialect.

The exploring party greatly "pleased the sable visitors by each taking one of the names. The blacks danced and shouted and carried on in great style, apparently considering they had now become members of one family. The whites then made signs for the blacks to go to their camp, as night was approaching. They went away in good humour, but this did not prevent the whites from taking precautions against an unfriendly surprise visit. However, the night passed without any untoward occurrence.

The following morning the myalls, with two others, visited the camp again and were greatly entertained at seeing the horses loaded with their packs and jumping with their for-feet when short hobbled. Mr. Gaden then distributed some small tomahawks and coloured handkerchiefs among them. They expressed great delight and in this way amicable relations were established. The leader also put a handle in an axe and showed the blacks how rapidly it would cut. The parting was extremely friendly.

The explorers proceeded south to Bonar (Bowen) River and on to their outward tracks to the head of the Isaacs River and Burton Downs. They spend three days looking over Eaglefield and Bierwan, and were pleased with the country. From here they proceeded to Fort Cooper and Camped at a nice sheet of water, which they named Ramsay's Lagoon. At this lagoon they succeeded in shooting some wild ducks, which were greatly appreciated, more particularly as their meat was getting exhausted. Lost in the Wilds

Still on the homeward direction the next day they came to what is now known as Funnel Creek. Here Marmaduke Ramsay left the others to explore the Creek for some distance and expected to overtake the rest of the party before nightfall. It was a very unwise move, as the unfortunate gentleman was to find, Meanwhile the leader and the rest of the party went on to Connor's Creek, now Conner's River, and camped, at what is now Collaroy Station, on a little hill above the river.

The night was very dark and Mr. Ramsay did not appear, though Mr. Gaden feft sure the horse would follow the others. The night passed without Mr. Ramsay appearing, so Mr. Walker and one of the blackboys went back to look for him. That evening they picked up Ramsay's tracks, but too late to follow them far, so they camped there till daylight.

Early next morning Mr. Walker and the blackboy started to run the track of the missing man, but found it difficult on account of the brigalow scrub, patches of which were about. It was clear that Ramsay was lost, and, like most lost people, the unfortunate fellow had gone round and round in a circle. One can imagine the terrible feeling of the poor fellow, without food, in an entirely unknown country, with the prospect of being set on by wild black, which were plentiful enough in that neighborhood.

A Providential Rescue

All that day Mr. walker kept on Ramsay's tracks till about four o'clock, when they stopped to make tea in a quart pot. Whilst the pot was getting boiled the tired searchers were startled by a whirlwind which passed by Mr. Walker sprang to his feet, as there was always the danger of being pounced on by blacks. Looking carefully round Mr. Walker spied Mr. Ramsay about a hundred yards away waving his hat.

The searchers run up to Ramsay, who, strange to say, had been disturbed from a recumbent position by the same whirlwind, thinking it was someone calling him.

The poor fellow was in very low state and his mind was evidently affected. He did not remember anything that had passed. He had fastened his watch and compass to the tree he had been lying under, and had quite given up all hope of being rescued, having been three days lost. He was taken to the fire and given tea and honey cake in small quantities at a time, but he was quite unfit to continue the journey. Mr. Walker wanted to learn something about Ramsay's house, and decided to camp that night where they were.

After Ramsay had slept three or four hours he woke considerably improved in condition. He was then able to give some particulars of what had happened to him. It appears that the horse was lost the first night, and when he went to look for it in the morning he found the precaution to cut a large place of bark from the tree where he camped as a guide to him in returning. He left the tomahawk in the tree and the gun by the side of it. In wandering sound looking of the horse he was again lost, and could neither find the horse nor the place where he had camped.

Poor fellow; it was a awful position to be in, and he became quite despondent, lost in the trackless bush, without food or arms, there seemed little prospect of his being rescued. He made himself a bed of leaves, and decided to remain there till he was found or died. It was an awful experience, and he had not fully recovered the following year, when he was drowned in the Dawson River. Homeward Bound

Nothing further interfered with the homeward journey, and following their old tacks they got to Princhester, where Mr. Dan Connor had arrived with sheep to stock the country he had taken up there. The next day the party arrived at Canoona Station, where they had made the final start outward. during Mr. Gaden's absence his partner Mr. John Peter Bonar Hamilton Ramsay, better known as "Alphabetical" Ramsay, had purchased Canoona Station from Messrs Elliott Brothers, and had settled down there, the firm being know as Ramsay and Gaden. The exploring party was then disbanded, Messrs, Walker and Marmaduke Ramsay going on to the Burnett district.

A Poor Reward for Enterprise

Mr. Garden sent in application for the land he had marked off in both expeditions to the New South Wales Government, but for some unexplained reasons the application was returned with the court intimation: -"This country not open for settlement." Mr. Gaden then went to Sydney to make a personal application, but the Government would do nothing till after the separation, and the Minister declined to even retain the applications.

Subsequently Mr. Gaden sold the blocks he had named Inkerman and Balaclava to Captain Robert Towns, subject to the country being granted by the Government. Captain Towns then fitted up one of his vessels in Sydney with a miscellaneous cargo, and sent also a married couple, two or three working men, as well as horses, cows, goats, pigs, jowls, sheep, cart, tools of various kinds and a big stock of provisions. The men appointed to carry out the enterprise was a Mr. John Black, who when the vessel sailed was instructed to look for a harbor near the mouth of the Burdekin River, at where to land the expedition.

This vessel dully arrived and Mr. Black decided on a site he named Towns Ville, after his employer, Black then went to examine the country purchased from Mr. Gaden, Mr. Black subsequently returned to Brisbane, where he met Mr. Gaden. Meanwhile George Elphinstone Dalrymple had been appointed Crown Lands Commissioner. Mr. Black remained in Brisbane till the 1st of January 1860, the day on which New South Wales and Queensland were separated, and of course the new Government for the present State came into being. Mr. Black called on the Commissioner early on New Year's morning, only to find that during the previous night's conviviality, when the New Year "came in", amidst conviviality, applications were handed to the Commissioner and those who applied when the office opened were too late. Mr. Black did some exploring on his own account and took to country on the Fanning River.

This was certainly an unexpected and undeserved return for those who had taken the expense and risk, not to mention the hardships to open up new country to white settlement.

During the time these futile negotiations were going on gold was discovered on Canoona run, and among those who opened stores on the field were Ramsay and Gaden. This was termed the Port Curtis rush and though a comparative failure, was the means of rapidly opening up and settling the country.